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Gorée, between remembrance and living: a vibrant world heritage site

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Gorée, between remembrance and living: a vibrant world heritage site

2025-08-22
Gorée Island, off the coast of Dakar, stands as a powerful symbol of the transatlantic slave trade. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site it balances remembrance with the realities of daily life.
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Gorée Island, off the coast of Dakar, stands as a powerful symbol of the transatlantic slave trade. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site it balances remembrance with the realities of daily life.
UN Photo/Mark Garten
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An emblematic site of African history and the memory of the slave trade, Gorée Island is much more than a monument frozen in the past. It is also a living, breathing community, where heritage and everyday life must coexist. Eloi Coly, the curator of the House of Slaves, spoke to Africa Renewal about what he terms the balancing act between remembrance and living.

How would you describe the island of Gorée to someone who has never been here? What does it represent in the collective imagination?

The island of Gorée is above all a place of memory. It incarnates two significant and painful periods in the history of Africa: the slave trade and the colonial era. These were profound changes in the continent's destiny, and Gorée is a direct witness to them. The Slave House, in particular, symbolises this tragic history. It crystallises the memory of the slave trade, but also the duty not to forget the victims and to remain vigilant in the face of the fragility of human freedoms. It is more than just a building: it is a place of reflection for the whole world.

In 1978, UNESCO classified it as a World Heritage site, recognising its exceptional universal value. This classification has helped to raise awareness, on an African and international scale, of the need to protect this place and what it represents in the collective memory.

Gorée is not just a historical site, is it? What about life on the island today?

No of course not, Gorée is not a static museum. It's a living, breathing place, with families, children, schools and shops. Life goes on, and it's essential to remember that. This daily life is interwoven with history: the narrow streets, the old buildings, the military forts - each element tells the story of the past in its own way, but is also part of the present.

Gorée cannot be reduced to the Slave House alone, even if it is the focal point. The whole environment of the island is part of this living memory.

But this duality - remembrance and everyday life - raises some complex issues. It's not a question of fossilising the local population in the name of heritage preservation. The inhabitants must be able to live their lives to the full, while at the same time being involved in maintaining this memory. But we can only preserve what we have an interest in. So we need to ensure that the conservation of the site also benefits those who live there.

How is the Gorée heritage being practically managed? What difficulties have you encountered?

The management of Gorée is a delicate balancing act between several players: the town council, the heritage department (within the Ministry of Culture), and technical bodies such as the Bureau d'Architecture du Monument (BAM). Since Act III of decentralisation in Senegal, the municipality has had extended powers. It can authorise construction or alterations, but is required to consult the Heritage Department to ensure compliance with conservation standards. This system of shared management is necessary, but it doesn't always run smoothly. There are sometimes tensions, because the concerns are not the same. The mayor focuses on the day-to-day needs of the population - housing, economic activities, living environment - while the heritage departments insist on rigorous conservation standards. Landlords, for their part, may share certain concerns, but their motivations vary. Added to this is the fact that the legal framework did not anticipate this situation: a World Heritage Site located in a full municipality. This creates grey areas, overlapping responsibilities and sometimes deadlock.

How do you reconcile the preservation of Gorée's heritage with the necessary changes to life on the island?

The management of the site must be based on principles that are immutable, first and foremost respect for the World Heritage Convention. This is a universal rule that is binding on all countries. But in practice, challenges arise on a daily basis. The imperatives of conservation must constantly be reconciled with the needs of local residents and the dynamics of urban development. Certain transformations are tolerated as long as they do not alter the coherence of the site, but it requires a fine-tuned reading of each project. Gorée is a living place. Homes evolve; aspirations change. But in many cases in Africa, sites have been listed even before they have been developed. This creates a tension between the past, which we want to protect, and the present, which we need to support. In the case of Gorée, the attributes that justified its classification must remain intact. Any inappropriate transformation could be perceived as an anachronism, with the real - if theoretical - risk of downgrading by UNESCO.

Why is compliance with the World Heritage Convention so crucial?

Because the listing does not come from UNESCO. It is the States that voluntarily choose to share part of their heritage with the world. From then on, they must respect the commitments they have made. A State that fails in this responsibility loses its credibility. Senegal, for its part, has demonstrated its determination to protect its heritage. With seven or eight listed sites, the Department of Cultural Heritage is working to conserve them in the interests of future generations.

What is the impact of tourism on the island, and how is it perceived?

Tourism is an essential lever. At weekends, especially Sundays, the island welcomes many visitors. This allows us to share a history that is not just that of Africans or blacks, but of humanity as a whole. This memory needs to be included in school curricula, which is already the case in Senegal. What's more, this recognition helps the descendants of the victims to mourn. After 400 years of the slave trade and 200 years of colonisation, a profound loss of self-esteem has set in.

How can we restore this self-esteem today?

Through education. Slaves were denied this opportunity, because education is liberating. It enables people to understand concepts and claim their rights. One of the greatest paradoxes is that human rights violations are often committed by intellectuals. Hence the importance, today, of giving children the tools to read, understand and question the world.

Senegal has understood this. Very early on, the slave trade and slavery were integrated into the curriculum. Schools organise visits to Gorée as part of their extra-mural courses. It is not unusual to welcome up to 1,500 pupils in a single day. But this influx needs to be better regulated so as not to weaken the site. Once again, it's a question of striking a balance between transmission, memory and preservation.

Which visits have had the greatest impact on you?

Three highlights: the visit of Pope John Paul II, President Bush and Barack Obama.

John Paul II apologised on behalf of Europe and made it clear that the priests who blessed the slave ships were doing so in a personal capacity, not in the name of the Christian religion. His visit helped to dispel certain historical misunderstandings.

George Bush's visit was more controversial. The inhabitants had been ‘parked’ for security reasons, which raised tensions in an international context marked by war.

Finally, Obama's visit was very personal. He carried with him a dual heritage: that of Africa, and that of African American history through his wife and children. He seemed torn, even in his private exchanges. It was an emotional visit.

What do you personally take away from all this?

What I'm most proud of is having been able to join the International Coalition of Sites of Conscience, which helped secure the support of the Ford Foundation. Thanks to this, the revitalisation project was born. And today, I can say that the next generation is assured. What we started, others will continue. It's the law of transmission: people are not eternal, but history must be.

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